邦戴沙灘. Bondi beach, Australia.

Sorry for the gap in reports but I am back in Australia now for two months. Why?, Well I was made redundant two weeks ago so camelback to Sydney to rest over Xmas and new year.I got a 7"2", soft board from leysgosurfing.com second hand for $50. Took it out this morning for a surf in windy conditions3-5ft crap swell. Huge rip working from right to left. Could hardly get out on squally and strong wind. No one out there around 9.15am. ，，好久不見。我有先回奧州，應為被fired. 現台灣金融不好做。所以我會先休假。過年後會回台灣。今天早上浪不好衝。風有大，浪很亂。我沒辦法去外面。真糟糕。明天在衝浪吧。