DOUBLE TEN SURFING, DASHI

Up early morning, at 5am, it is always a struggle to get out of bed in the pitch black but today I was determined to make it to the beach for a wave. Rain had being the forecast but it has only was spitting while I was having a quick drink in Shida park last night. The taxi I got was one driven by a young guy, with all the windows open, nice cool breeze as we took off to the station. This driver was a real hoon, with the drivers seat laid right back and he was leaning into it relaxing. We were coming up to a red light near the station when suddenly, the driver flicked a switch (just like in the move Fast and Furious and the car leapt ahead suddenly however fast and we took the corner at great speed, just beating the light. On the way we had being able to glimpse at the preparations for Double Ten celebrations outside the Presidential Office.

I went straight into the station, purchased a ticket and waited half asleep for the train to arrive, not many people at all today. Grabbing a seat on the train, I was able to obtain a 2 seater all to myself, enabling me to squash up and attempt to sleep, listening to Eminem looping on my iPhone. A few labourers got on at Nankang and at 6am were chatting away for the next hour, making it hard to sleep, but at least the weather was splendid. After exiting the tunnel after Fulong the sea was shining a healthy blue with beautiful sunshine. The waves were strong and full sweeping across the ocean and crashing onto the beach at Dali Station (pic 1).

Despite what looked like a strong wind, conditions looked perfect for surfing today. I alighted at Dashi Station, the wind nearly blew me over so it was definitely going to be much stronger in the surf. I changed clothes at 'Cool Surfing' where I am a member and was walking along the sea wall to the surf when I was nearly blown off a few times as gusts of winds raced across, each time forcing me to bend down and grab my board to prevent it from blowing away and taking me with it. The beach was deserted with only one surfer in the water, always a good sign so my warmup was kept brief in order to get into the water quickly.

I launched into the water and was immediatley hit by a large set which pushed me down underwater, wave after wave. Finally a break came and the howling wind continually splashed water into my eyes, the salt stinging as well. The first wave I caught saw me fly down the front of the wave too quickly and I lost my balance, ending up head over heels into the foam. Thank God, the water is so deep, it was a soft landing. I got back onto my board and paddled outside once more and the second wave, about 6ft, came hurtling towards me as I was getting up, my hand slipped on the side and I wiped out once more. A good start for the day, but so cool to be out here, once in the water, it is total relaxation.

A huge set came in and I let the first go, then got the second cutting away to the rightside, up into the wave as it started to break and landed board and all back into the sea, a successful ride .Onshore, I could see more vans pulling up to check out the waves, no doubt, word had spread on the excellent conditions. However, just the 2 of us in the water here still. Another set came through quickly and I was able to get placed to ride the wave at a great angle sliding down then curving back to the top, flicked back down, then up and over. Priceless waves on a sunny day. The crowds started to come and congregate round the spot I was but soon drifted away. The wind speed picked up and was pushing the swell down flat so I called it a day, but such a fantastic way to spend October 10 holiday.