
Driving past Waiao at 5.55am it was flat with 2ft messy swell at best (pic 1 above) and Wushi Port was actually worse but I didnt check out Shuangxi. Dashi had a great sunrise, albeit it a late one by the time I got there. As usual those beautiful dogs that hang around the beach for as long as I have known and greet each and all whether you come on foot or by car. Blackie and Sandy are my names I have given them, both rush up to you wagging their tails, smiling (dogs do), really happy to see you and for that they get a great pat on the nose and a small hug as I bend down to pat them. Quickly they resume their sleep pose until the next car comes. Best man's friend that I HAVE MET IN TAIWAN. At first like last Saturday, the surf is deceptive, as the swell looked flat, great morning temperature and no wind compared to last week. The current again was strong taking you from left to right after you got out past the first 20 metres or so. Great water termperature this morning, maybe 22 degrees and no need in my view for a wetsuit as the water was too warm. I was able to get out with no problem as there were no sets coming in. About 60-70 metres out there was a sandbank where the first set broke, then the water went to over 2 metres in depth until near the shore. A set came in and suddenly the waves rose up right before your eyes so you have to be aware and looking directly out to sea. The first wave came quickly so I rode it straight down, struggling to get up as the wave pushed me forward, eventually standing and riding it to the the right. The next set came quickly in much the same fashion and again I was misplaced, ending up straight down, finally standing up and riding to the left. What the heck, great weather and beach to myself so far. The swell dropped off and it was just the flying fish and I was bobbing up and down in the water which was murky today, not sure why as the typhoon was long gone. There was a bit of debris as well. Set two rolled in and this time I was ready, lined up to the side and was up fast and riding the wave sideways down the front then flicked back up just as it was closing out. Paddling back was hard yakka with current constantly a drag adding at least ten minutes, with a huge cross current, tiring work. My friend Mr Zhang turned up around 730 with about 4 other surfers to join the party and the sun was starting to breakout and I had forgot to put on suntan cream. I would become a tomato today for sure. Again I wasnt paying attention and the swell came in catching me out and dumping me serverely, followed by at least 6 other waves. With a strong current, a longtime to get outside too. I got a few more waves, just short rides as the waves faded after the sandbank,nonetheless, good rides. There was about a dozen surfers now as the sun blazed down on the beach, blackie and sandy were fast asleep. Breakfast was at the breakfast shop near Toucheng Station, Ice tea, Tuna salad burger and fried egg on pancake. I love the service and atomsphere friendly and chaootic, no change in the years I have come. Total NT70 and better value than Taipei, plus outside and 阿pleasant view of the park and station. A surfing mate called and said that Shuangxi was good, no current and 3-4 ft swell, however many riders. Dashi was bigger but strong current. On the way back to Taipei, I first drove over to Chingsui near Xietian Temple, about 60+ out crowded but swell 3ft at best. See Pic 4 below.

Tiring now after 3 hours, I called it a day around 9am and the swell had picked up versus 6.15am (pic below).
外澳's wave was good. I have fun today
ReplyDeleteNice weather! Next time you go to Toucheng, visit "gcoolsurf" shop. There's a guy called Terry. You may have great time surfing togerther~
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