Friday, November 23, 2012
洞河。Donghe
The wind was strong from 545am to around 8, but swell was up to 5ft then. It was cold too. Now the swell has dropped down so no wind with 3-4 ft swell. About 5 surfers and the other side of the river has half dozen. 現在風所以沒有早上冷。浪很smooth,有5個人左右。
Thursday, November 22, 2012
Jihui Fishport
Today as the pic show,2-3ft but a lovely day for cycling or fishing:)
Sent from my iPhone
Sent from my iPhone
Wushi beach/Yiwan:.烏石鼻沙灘/已灣
烏石沒有浪。已灣下面照片很少。both wushi and Yiwan are too small, stay at home:).
Sent from my iPhone
Sent from my iPhone
Sunday, November 18, 2012
烏石 Port, 外奧,大溪。Wushi. Waiao, Dashi
Wushi about 2-3 ft, small swell, opposite Waiao station and to the right, 2-3ft looked ok. Dashi was completely flat.
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Sent from my iPhone
Jihui Fishport
This place is hard to get to and best with a local or Gps. Coral bottom so again for experience surfers only. Go with a local if you can:. Only good with large swells:)very majestic mountain background.
Saturday, November 17, 2012
洞北河早上報告;dongbei riverotning upste
At5.45, (no pic), there was little swell to speak so we drove to 已灣Yiwan and it was flat. However when we returned to dongbei as you can see below, great waves, with odd 8ft coming through. Sun is out too, no rain
Taiwan open surf Competition
Today was pouring down rain and kept the spectators down. But the waves were good in my humble view. 4/5ft at least and rideable. I saw the Hawaiian guy who carved up the waves and a local guy too. I am not a judge but enjoyed the spectacle. However was surprised at how many photographers there were. No Chinese report as I am stuffed now:).
台東衝浪店。洞北河下午報告。
今天下午衝浪後想休息,吃飯。所以下雨衣服很難乾。3年前我有來洞北河衝浪我有來台東衝浪店租板子。所以我一看到店裡員工認識他。他們是原主民。今天我一遍吃意大利麵聽很好的音樂,氣氛很棒。然後去洗澡。so lucky:).我在車子裡睡著。so to have a hot shower is heaven。Taitung surf shop is a ggreat place to relax. Especially on a wet day like today when you can't stay all day in the car and need to dry out. Great music and seafood pasta, with a coke. I really need a coke to get some sugar and caffeine in me after a long day surfing. One aint a spring chicken.
Dondbei river was windy and rainy today with a great swell, 6-7 sets came through but hard to catch. Only 2 of us out today.Most at the comp, still water was warm and little wind. But a strong current takes you outside quickly. Be careful.
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Dondbei river was windy and rainy today with a great swell, 6-7 sets came through but hard to catch. Only 2 of us out today.Most at the comp, still water was warm and little wind. But a strong current takes you outside quickly. Be careful.
Sent from my iPhone
Friday, November 16, 2012
Donghe River mouth.洞河。
今天早上6點下水。浪很大6法庭,一個人高。水很溫。沒有風。真美麗。衝了很多浪,感覺很舒服,比宜蘭好多。後來人越來越多,大家多很人情味。8點多
開始下雨,浪變大。衝浪完後去吃饅頭:)。crashed iny van like a true bum, got about 4-5 hours kip and was woken up by the chooks, Always a good feeling.hit the water a six, said morning to the cows. There were only 3 of us int the water, other two were locals getting in a surf before work. Great waves around 6 ft, breaking left to right, perfect formation. The water was warm too and no wind. By 7, there were around 40 surfers, but spread out. The waves became full and hard to catch but by 8 had picked up to be curling well, breaking left and right. A local, jian pointed out my takeoff was slow, needs some work. Spot on there. I had struggled to paddle blackout a few times but a great workout. Current was moving to the river mouth and taking you out to sea. Watch out there. Started to pour and I called it a day. Great surf.:)
開始下雨,浪變大。衝浪完後去吃饅頭:)。crashed iny van like a true bum, got about 4-5 hours kip and was woken up by the chooks, Always a good feeling.hit the water a six, said morning to the cows. There were only 3 of us int the water, other two were locals getting in a surf before work. Great waves around 6 ft, breaking left to right, perfect formation. The water was warm too and no wind. By 7, there were around 40 surfers, but spread out. The waves became full and hard to catch but by 8 had picked up to be curling well, breaking left and right. A local, jian pointed out my takeoff was slow, needs some work. Spot on there. I had struggled to paddle blackout a few times but a great workout. Current was moving to the river mouth and taking you out to sea. Watch out there. Started to pour and I called it a day. Great surf.:)
東bei河
At last a surf after all that driving. Easily best place of the day. Crowded but fantastic waves, a great spot.
Thursday, November 15, 2012
宜彎。Yiwan.
The main surf spot according to locals
Is at the bridge opposite the Catholic Church. Yiwan is a rocky beach with today a 2-3ft break but best to surf to the right and left of the bridge as directly in front of the bridge is quite rocky. Beach is accessible by stairs beside the bridge. Loval bus available but best by car. I didnt see any toilets or rest area.. No one here today. Happy surfing:).
Is at the bridge opposite the Catholic Church. Yiwan is a rocky beach with today a 2-3ft break but best to surf to the right and left of the bridge as directly in front of the bridge is quite rocky. Beach is accessible by stairs beside the bridge. Loval bus available but best by car. I didnt see any toilets or rest area.. No one here today. Happy surfing:).
烏石鼻沙灘。Wushibi Beach
Wushibi is just 3 Kmart before Chenggong-成功。a nice sandy beach about 1.5 km long, deserted with right and left break. All surfers but good for beginners. Good 3ft gentle break today. A couple of B&b on the beachfront which is accessible to all. Car transport essential as local bus would take over an hour from taitung. Happy surfing.
八qien洞
Today the swell was around 2-3 ft and the locals at the seafood restaurant had not seen any surfers for days. This would have to be the flattest spot so far down the coast. Not to mention a Taiwanese couple back at yongfong told me they caught another shark yesterday, Cut open it had 6 baby sharks inside according to them. Hope there are no more sharks around.Keep your eyes open:).
貌公溪。Maogong River;gong bin River
Fongbin river mouth was small today around 2-3 ft at best. Best to surf to the left of the rock that is located 50m out to see. A local fisherman told me there were about half dozen surfers in the last few days. Full public access here with beach 5 mins walk from the main road and less from the car park. No toilets or showers and best to use a car to get here. Happy surfing.;$
Yanliao port.鹽寮港。
This pic is taken on the actual fishing dock and looks to the left. The first hundred meters have rocks do best avoided. Go further up the beach about 200-300 meters and enter from the beach. On the right handside there are waves right off the cement dock but the local fishermen said there are many fishnets. He said it was dangerous, but good 2-4ft swell today in both spots:), and no surfers.
Friday, November 9, 2012
沒有浪,起腳踏車到 陽明山.No waves, Cycle up Yangming Mountain
今天早上知道宜蘭浪平平的,'所以改活動。起腳踏車到陽明山。5。40起來,然後打接運到士林。6。30開始起,天氣非常好。經過故宮看到法論大法,打坐抗議。很認真吧。山坡後turn left.在往山上,拍照片。我很累,好久沒有起車:(。每個人比我快,可是我不在乎。再往上,就發現我腳踏車的bike chain broke(國語忘記了,抱歉:)。很糟糕。我很難過推我腳踏車到接運回家。
Today as there were no waves in yilan, I wanted to ride my bike up Yangming mountain. I began the ride at Shilin mrt station at 6.30, and the weather was fantastic. I cycled past the National Palace and saw the Falungong, demonstrating, with real vigour. I turned left and hit the first hill, stopping to take the photo below. I continued on my ride but soon after my bike chain broke, I couldn't believe my bad luck and pushed my bike back to Shilin mrt.
Today as there were no waves in yilan, I wanted to ride my bike up Yangming mountain. I began the ride at Shilin mrt station at 6.30, and the weather was fantastic. I cycled past the National Palace and saw the Falungong, demonstrating, with real vigour. I turned left and hit the first hill, stopping to take the photo below. I continued on my ride but soon after my bike chain broke, I couldn't believe my bad luck and pushed my bike back to Shilin mrt.
Friday, November 2, 2012
Suao/蘇奧
It is 9.15 now and the sun is starting to poke its head through the clouds. High tide do the swell has dropped to 3-4 at best but still pleasant surfing. There are about 40 surfers out now, quite alot I am told, in fact double the usual amount. Earlier on today I met (龍哥) Long Ge who has just started a new surf shop called 樂高衝浪(Lego surfing Club) 6 months ago. He knows the waves well here.
Great swell I thought with some 6 footers early on. Should be similar conditions tomorrow. Happy surfing
Great swell I thought with some 6 footers early on. Should be similar conditions tomorrow. Happy surfing
Suao/蘇奧。
Good waves, 3-5 feet, about 8 people out
I arrived at 620am having left Taipei at 4.50 am, the drive is about 80 minutes via the Shueishan Tunnel and there is virtually no traffic at that time of the morning. The only heavy rain was when I was around Suao and it was necessary to use the wipers. After ten minutes it abated make driving that little easier. Pic 1 above shows a good early morning swell and there were only 8 of surfers there then, with one in the water. There was no breeze at all and it was still warm, around 20 deg, not necessary in my view to wear a wetsuit. However, I was the only one not wearing one.
Usually you enter the water to the far right of the beach, near the hillside (seen in pic 2 below) to the right of the cars.
That is because the current is usually strong running from left to right but today it wasn't that bad, so yours truly went straight in front of the car park. The water was warm too, around 21-22, but definitely not cold and no wind at all. My friend Mr Zhang and I were straight in the water and paddling out quite easily. The first hour was sets 3-5 feet coming straight down but with high tide and a deep trench at the shore, were breaking and finishing 50 metres out, then reforming, breaking till 10 metres from the shoreline. Hence getting in would be tricky.
The main breaks I got were right to left, moving down the front (i am too slow) or if positioned properly on take off sideways, the run was good. I was able to get in few turns and we were the only surfers out in this section. A dream run again, indicating the earlier you get there, the beach will be yours for quite awhile. Long Ge a local i just met before hitting the waves and recently opened a new surfshop said that the last 2 typhoons had taken away all the sand on the beach. Now it is rocky, a real pity.
Read the next blog for more action
I arrived at 620am having left Taipei at 4.50 am, the drive is about 80 minutes via the Shueishan Tunnel and there is virtually no traffic at that time of the morning. The only heavy rain was when I was around Suao and it was necessary to use the wipers. After ten minutes it abated make driving that little easier. Pic 1 above shows a good early morning swell and there were only 8 of surfers there then, with one in the water. There was no breeze at all and it was still warm, around 20 deg, not necessary in my view to wear a wetsuit. However, I was the only one not wearing one.
Usually you enter the water to the far right of the beach, near the hillside (seen in pic 2 below) to the right of the cars.
That is because the current is usually strong running from left to right but today it wasn't that bad, so yours truly went straight in front of the car park. The water was warm too, around 21-22, but definitely not cold and no wind at all. My friend Mr Zhang and I were straight in the water and paddling out quite easily. The first hour was sets 3-5 feet coming straight down but with high tide and a deep trench at the shore, were breaking and finishing 50 metres out, then reforming, breaking till 10 metres from the shoreline. Hence getting in would be tricky.
The main breaks I got were right to left, moving down the front (i am too slow) or if positioned properly on take off sideways, the run was good. I was able to get in few turns and we were the only surfers out in this section. A dream run again, indicating the earlier you get there, the beach will be yours for quite awhile. Long Ge a local i just met before hitting the waves and recently opened a new surfshop said that the last 2 typhoons had taken away all the sand on the beach. Now it is rocky, a real pity.
Read the next blog for more action
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