今天下午衝浪後想休息，吃飯。所以下雨衣服很難乾。3年前我有來洞北河衝浪我有來台東衝浪店租板子。所以我一看到店裡員工認識他。他們是原主民。今天我一遍吃意大利麵聽很好的音樂，氣氛很棒。然後去洗澡。so lucky:).我在車子裡睡著。so to have a hot shower is heaven。Taitung surf shop is a ggreat place to relax. Especially on a wet day like today when you can't stay all day in the car and need to dry out. Great music and seafood pasta, with a coke. I really need a coke to get some sugar and caffeine in me after a long day surfing. One aint a spring chicken.
Dondbei river was windy and rainy today with a great swell, 6-7 sets came through but hard to catch. Only 2 of us out today.Most at the comp, still water was warm and little wind. But a strong current takes you outside quickly. Be careful.
Sent from my iPhone
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