今天早上6點下水。浪很大6法庭,一個人高。水很溫。沒有風。真美麗。衝了很多浪,感覺很舒服,比宜蘭好多。後來人越來越多,大家多很人情味。8點多
開始下雨,浪變大。衝浪完後去吃饅頭:)。crashed iny van like a true bum, got about 4-5 hours kip and was woken up by the chooks, Always a good feeling.hit the water a six, said morning to the cows. There were only 3 of us int the water, other two were locals getting in a surf before work. Great waves around 6 ft, breaking left to right, perfect formation. The water was warm too and no wind. By 7, there were around 40 surfers, but spread out. The waves became full and hard to catch but by 8 had picked up to be curling well, breaking left and right. A local, jian pointed out my takeoff was slow, needs some work. Spot on there. I had struggled to paddle blackout a few times but a great workout. Current was moving to the river mouth and taking you out to sea. Watch out there. Started to pour and I called it a day. Great surf.:)
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